Sahagun. a chocolate ally in Portland

My past trip to Portland was the first one where I was able to see the farmer's markets in full throttle. I had been hearing about them from my family for the last few years they've lived there, and even though here in SF we have some of the best around, I always like to see and taste how other growing regions  produce different fruit or fruit differently.

But I had not just been hearing about the amazing berries, apples and hazelnuts from the Pacific Northwest, I had been hearing about these wild chocolates at the Saturday farmer's market sold under the elegant trees that sprinkled dappled light on our heads and the umbrella tents. It helped that I was hearing about an exceptionally beautiful woman with tiny hand-dipped, seasonally infused ganache filled chocolates.

And I got lucky. I met the woman behind the exquisite sweets and was able to visit a slip of a ruby colored shop, her new space for showcasing these bittersweet jewels. Square plates present square chocolates with silver dust in shiny colors to hint at what lay inside. Pink faerie dust alludes to rose geranium, red - chili, green - fresh mint. I was there in time for the marionberry truffles, an orb that is Portland's dimple. Demure and coy, Portland entices with tiny hidden small businesses, summer weather that knocks your socks off, a burgeoning food scene where hope and possibility are in everyones eyes.

Portland is friendly, overly so, for the most part. The city is excited to be itself and every food person I spoke to just smiled and smiled, whether they were talking about bicycle paths, Laughing Stock Farm pigs, First Thursday, berries, bio-diesel, green architecture or the Willamette River.

When I approached Elizabeth Montes, the owner of Sahagun, I was shy and nervous. But a few days a later when I stopped into her store on NW 16th ave. {between Burnside and Couch}, we fell easily into conversation about 'the business' and she showed me the new tempering machine. She told me how temperature wasn't always her friend. Chocolate makers are really the scientists of the pastry world. Their spaces are cool, clean, streamlined and shiny. Chocolate must be tamed and every brand and bean produces a new wild animal.

It makes perfect sense that Sahagun's confections are sold at the farmer's market. They are fresh and should be eaten very soon after purchase. The other day I unfolded two whole hazelnut topped thimble shaped chocolates and shared them with an old beau. He was god damned lucky because they were filled with caramel the texture of silk spilling out of a box. I was expecting something much denser but was met with overflowing gorgeous sticky liquid. This innocuous little thing is a reason for driving the 12 hours it takes to get to Portland!

If you get there while it's still warm ask for a CHOCOLATE SODA. I got this email today, so I know she's ready.

Hi Shuna! 
Some people came in here last week and asked for a chocolate soda, yikes!  I quickly found out they were your friends and made them one.  Since you left I hadn't made another one so I don't think it turned out any better.  BUT
Since today was such a hot day I thought I might make another go of it.  ......Much better!  I used a cocktail shaker instead of whisking the chocolate and water then poured the soda.  It was good.  So .......I'm ready for any surprise chocolate soda drinkers you throw my way.....
: ) Elizabeth

And if you arrive there finding yourself a bit chilled she tells me she's working on THE PERFECT HOT CHOCOLATE.

Excited about Portland yet?

Comments

[haddock]

We were the soda drinkers and it tasted pretty good to me.

The name of the shop is Sahagun though rather than Shagun. My guess is this is related to Bernardino de Sahagún, chronicler of Cortez's time in Mexico.

Thanks for the tip. And you're right, Elizabeth is quite fetching.

[Shuna]

Haddock---
Thank you for explaining the origin of the name. I had no idea how to explain it in the post because it was confusing to me. Gastronomy is such a wide and deep field.

How devilishly smart you are!

[Jeanne]

After reading all your Portland food finds I need to get on up to there soon!

[Devon]

Yet again you have described another place I need to visit in this city of mine...I will have to remember this place when the rain starts and I need to warm myself. Hot chocolate is the best.

[ExtraMSG]

If you get a chance, try her truffles and palets, as well. Some of the best I've had, which includes truffles from the best chocolatiers in the US. Really well balanced flavorings and nice textures.

See here:

http://www.extramsg.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid=101#sahagun

[Elizabeth]

Wow thanks for posting the great pictures and nice story!! And even more thanks for coming to visit Sahagún and compelling me to work on my soda. Make sure to stop in whenever you’re here maybe we can get up to some more chocolate mayhem.

Elizabeth

[McAuliflower]

Thanks for unearthing such wonderful treasures for me! I'm looking at goin gup to Portland next weekend to help support a marathoner. Maybe I'll lure her over the finish line with chocolate!!

[FoodDude]

Um, she's not working on the perfect hot chocolate. She has achieved it and sent me into a chocolate high I'll will not forget anytime soon.