It's rare the chocolate chip cookie puts on a new outfit which doesn't suit him. He is as basic a flavor profile, and wonderful a taste memory, as Hershey's chocolate Kiss, an apple plucked from the tree in Autumn's crisp air, or icy fresh-squeezed lemonade in July.
But every once and a while it's time to add something silky and bright to the chocolate chip cookie's closet. Maybe not a fabric you'd want to don every day, but a new swooshy thang for the odd Friday night, whilst you're, let's say, painting the town hot pink.
Because I've worked at a fair number of restaurants fancy and non-American, I copy a standard chocolate
chip cookie recipe into my pocket notebooks for the odd day I want to add a sweet sompin' to staff meal. The only change in the basic base cookie dough is I increase the brown sugar ratio for a chewier, softer cookie. A trick I learned at Citizen Cake where Elizabeth Falkner is known to replace white sugar with its molasses-tinged cousin, mostly because she loves it so much.
As EF is known for her leanings towards brown sugar, I've been known to leave my mark with cardamon laced desserts. Cardamon's smoky sharpness can get right in the ring with most dark chocolate. The spice is powerful, especially when you have the seeds in your midst, are grinding them yourself, or have the time to pull them out of the pods. Pop one in your mouth-- it's strong properties make it the best breath freshener!
I began making these cookies when I was at Aziza years ago, for the odd fun thing to send to favorite people who came in and were "forced" to eat special tidbits not appearing on the menu. The first night I served them under the radar, they were sent out freshly baked alongside small cups of hot chocolate.
Holly, a friend of my girlfriend at the time, attributes these cookies to her first impression of liking chocolate. She was so obsessed, she would beg me to make them every time she came into Aziza thereafter. Soon enough I knew to keep the batter on hand.
When I went back to Aziza recently I knew what my debut chocolate dessert would be. Hot cocoa with tiny homemade marshmallows, three miniature cardamon chocolate chunk cookies warmed to order and cocoa nib ice cream. And I named it, "Holly's Special Dessert."
I'm not going to spell out the method and all that, because these are chocolate chip cookies with red high heel's is all. Mix batter the way the Nestle's package tells you to.
But here are some tips:
*Chop the dark chocolate with a serrated knife. You want a few big pieces, but if you're using Scharffen Berger or Valrhona the flavour will be very strong and you may lose the overall effect with a bite that's only chocolate. Cookies with "too big" chunks of chocolate will also have a harder time rising.
*Turn the pan around midway through the baking time. All ovens have hot spots-- your end result will be more evenly baked if you set two short timers instead of one long one.
*I like salt's bold character to come through, if you don't, decrease the salt, or use a different kind.
*Grinding cardamon right before you use it will impart a bigger bang. For store bought ground you may want to increase the amount for equal effect.
*Cocoa Nibs are all the rage now. But if you can't find them, it's no big deal. I like to have a chocolate component that's not chocolate itself. I like the texture of cocoa nibs. The flavor is definitely chocolate, but neither sweet nor melty.
*These cookies are best baked on parchment rather than a buttered baking pan. Because there's nothing in the chocolate to keep it from burning, as there is in a "chocolate chip," (soy lecithin mainly) the chocolate in the cookie which comes into contact with the searing heat of it's surroundings will melt and then want to burn. (Remember, chocolate melts at your mouth's temperature...)
*If you want to know why the writing out of this dessert looks this, click on this previous post of mine explaining its wily ways.
Without further ado I draw the velvet curtain and give you ~
CARDAMON CHOCOLATE CHUNK COOKIES
UNSALTED BUTTER 9 oz --room temperature
SUGAR 7 oz
DARK BROWN SUGAR 11 0z
EGGS 3 each Large --room temperature
VANILLA EXTRACT 1-2 T
ALL PURPOSE FLOUR 18 oz
BAKING SODA 1 1/2 teaspoons, sifted
KOSHER SALT 2 teaspoons
67-74 % DARK CHOCOLATE 8 oz
GROUND CARDAMON 1 1/2 teaspoons
CARDAMON SEEDS 1/2 teaspoon
COCOA NIBS 3 Tablespoons
E n j o y ! !
A Shuna recipe to serve as a wonderful surprise to me on this Thursday morning (or the extension of Wednesday night, depending on who you ask). I look forward to making this lovely variation on the classic cookie as soon as this barrage of school related activity is over, or perhaps at some point in between to serve as a means of procrastination.
Posted by: Sergio | 15 February 2007 at 08:51 AM
It was after hearing Elizabeth go on and on about Muscovado sugar at an event one time that I bought my first bag. It's now a regular staple in my pantry.
Posted by: jen maiser | 15 February 2007 at 10:59 AM
These sound good! I like Cardamom in spiced hot chocolate too.
Posted by: Alice Q. Foodie | 15 February 2007 at 11:15 AM
Yummy! Cardamom is my favorite spice. I chew it as a breath freshener, and have a special (tiny) mortar and pestle I use just for grinding it - keeping those other stronger spices for the coffee grinder.
I will try this tonight...
Posted by: Diane | 15 February 2007 at 01:44 PM
Yay! So glad you generously shared the recipe with us. As you know, I adored these when I tasted them at Aziza.
Posted by: Brett | 15 February 2007 at 09:08 PM
i love your description of a cookie as "swooshy." these just might be the cookies for me.
Posted by: robert | 16 February 2007 at 10:27 AM
WOO HOOO !! great post and of course thanks again for introducing me to the worlds best desserts that aren't too sweet, back to puppy duty !!
Posted by: holly (of the cookie fame :) | 16 February 2007 at 12:51 PM
"All ovens have hot spots"
Is that true for convection ovens as well? I've heard that the fan eliminates the hot spots.
Posted by: JeffL | 16 February 2007 at 10:27 PM
Hello JeffL,
Yes indeed, ALL ovens have hot spots. As well, cold spots and mystery spots. When I am new to an oven I bake cookies in it-- cookies show all these areas the best. Generally convection ovens have their hot spot in the top or the bottom, it depends on where most of the hot wind settles...
Posted by: shuna fish lydon | 17 February 2007 at 03:07 PM
I feel like a dork, but I'm not quite sure how to use my cardamom seeds. Crush them with their coats? Strip and then crush? Throw into the mix (not of cookies, but, say, a stew) un-mangled?
Posted by: nbm | 21 February 2007 at 12:40 PM
nbm,
you only want the actual seeds in the cookie, not the sheath or the papery binding that keeps the seeds together in the pod. If this was merely an infusion you could have all of this, like for, let's say, ice cream or syrup...
And anyway, eggbeater is a dork sometimes too, so you're in great company!
Posted by: shuna fish lydon | 21 February 2007 at 03:21 PM
Made these the other night for a bunch of friends...awesome! Thanks.
Posted by: JM | 26 February 2007 at 07:09 AM
I love cardamom and use it frequently. I grind it with my coffee beans and use a press or put some ground with my espresso and a twist of lemon. Now chocolate cookies... I'm salivating for cookies and coffee. Cardamom and lemon are a natural. Try lemon poppy seed cardamom muffins.... ooh!
Posted by: Elayne | 26 February 2007 at 08:06 PM
I don't see where the recipe notes the oven temp and bake time?
Posted by: kathy | 14 December 2007 at 07:06 PM
Hello Kathy,
This recipe is your basic Chocolate Chip cookie recipe-- just follow instructions on that famous bag of semi-sweet chips.
Although, like I've said-- I bake mine on parchment paper because it protects the good chocolate a little bit better.
Posted by: shuna fish lydon | 16 December 2007 at 04:53 AM
made these yesterday and we all love them here. thank you!
Posted by: trish | 28 July 2009 at 12:47 AM