Pastry Chef Love Notes.

Last Friday night one of our waiters came to me to say that he had a four top ( 4 diners ) who were going on and on about my desserts and maybe I wanted to say hello and talk to them? I asked him to bring me to their table, and make an introduction. It is always my pleasure to meet those people who have eaten my desserts. I have said many times in my career that I would love to be one of those corporate spies who just sits in dining rooms and watches how people eat. Yes, these people do exist. Even at independently owned restaurants these people can be hired to experience what the diner experiences.

On this particular night these four people, for whom it was their first time in the restaurant, were not shy about asking me questions, making observations, intuiting and absolutely getting what my desserts were about. It was like having someone come to your gallery opening and buying your best series, on the spot.

Sometimes people just know.

Sometimes you feed people who understand your whys, your process, your love and passion and hair-pulling hard work. Sometimes.

And when it happens you never forget.

Even in the kitchen there are those people who you think will get it, get you, but they don't. My own experience is that I never know who it will be, who will eat my desserts and understand the stories they're telling. But then someone, or many someones, come along and they are so expressive, so excited, so astute, that you meet them and they meet you and your little sweet children are where you all meet.
It's like the dog park, but better.

The next time you eat out, don't be afraid to thank the pastry chef for his or her creations. Whether you think you "get it" or not. Know this: we are the underdogs. We are not who people to go out to eat for. The savoury chef gets all the praise and don't think that if you tell him or her how much you enjoyed your meal he or she will pass that news onto the pastry chef.

Know this: when times are hard, our position is the first to go.

But maybe not if you've taken the time to recognize them. Maybe not if the management knows how much they bring to the place you frequent. Maybe not if you remind the owner that you always went there for the whole meal. Maybe not if that pastry chef knew how to do more than merely make cookies. Although maybe still, for there are no promises.

Look at this note. It's easy, it's funny and it's something to keep.

Thank you wonderful 4 top! For being brave and expressive and silly and generous. And for being some of the last people to appreciate my desserts and all the thought and love that went it to them at that place.

As many of you know, my life is bittersweet at the moment. I will write more about it when life gets a little less murky, or more easily understood.

 

Comments

[JOhn]

Well, I so sorry that it's not working out at Sens. I never had a chance to make it up from Pasadena, tho' I tried.

I know it's a stretch, but don't forget about us in the south when you look for your next gig!

Truly, all the best wishes.

[Ang Mccluskey]

Your writing is wonderful and I thank you for your passion of the industry and of the creative process, which sadly are often not the same.I feel akinship with you,as a chef and former pastry gal your observations ring so true.What doesnt kill us,makes our food more complex and original,you are so right,if people listened to our food it would tell epic stories and maybe it could bridge the gaps and shore up the divides... still a dreamer after twenty seven years. Thank you for your voice.

[Charlotte]

Aw, Shuna! *cries* I've been thinking "If I get a job in San Francisco, I must go eat Shuna's desserts at lunchtime and bring my friends."

*hugs*

Keep speaking your truth.

[Mary Ellen]

Did anyone tell you I was there asking for you on Saturday night? I was in from Vermont for the First-Year Experience Conference at the Hyatt. When I made the reservation, I said it was because of you. Three of us had fabulous meals, and two of us had your wonderful desserts. Our reservation was at 8:00, and I was told you had left when I ordered dessert. Everything was wonderful, and I wrote I love eggbeater! on my credit card receipt. I'm so sorry I missed seeing you. The desserts surpassed even my wild imaginings.
Mary Ellen

[Doris]

Sorry about your job - the desserts looked wonderful.

[ann]

Wow, can't believe it..it's on sf.eater.com, best of luck to you! Please take some time off, you deserve it!:

EMBARCADERO CENTER—Just opened in the fall, Sens, the ambitious restaurant in the cursed top-floor space of the Embarcadero Center, is already cutting costs and has asked star pastry chef and avid blogger Shuna Lydon to step down. The pastry chef is often the first to go when restaurants begin to cut costs, but in many ways, Lydon—a veteran of biggies like Gramercy Tavern, Citizen Cake, Bouchon, the French Laundry, etc—was the main attraction, so we'd say it's safe to begin casting nervous glances toward Sens. As for Lydon, her next move is uncertain, though we imagine she'll opt for the more established route; her desserts will stay on the Sens menu for the next two weeks only. [EaterWire]

[skg046]

:( I've enjoyed your desserts at Sens (and the meals, but mostly your desserts) on four occasions, and for one of those I brought friends and we passed everything around. Alas. Hope to find your wonderful creations elsewhere soon.

[barbara]

Oh I am sorry Shuna Fish. After following your blog I know how much of yourself you put into this position. And now I understand the past few weeks. Good luck.

[Lara]

I'm so sorry! The passion, hope and self you poured into Sens shone through your writing here.

Thank you for the education and inspiration I've found at your window.

[chadzilla]

It's cool that your waitstaff lets you know the intention of the diner when requesting you. Often, I get only... 'table 16 wants to talk to you.' Then you wander out into the dining room not knowing if someone is going to bathe you in compliments or tell you that you suck. You try to adjust your game face for either situation which usually means solemn silence. A simple 'thank you' to a compliment can make you appear modest, and silence when getting chewed out is pretty much all you can do if you want to keep your job... the temptation to retaliate is difficult to resist for a chef.
It is a great thing that you are getting some honest appreciation, Shuna. Keep on keepin' on.

[French Laundry at Home]

Well, fuck.

[Garrett]

*hugs*

[Alan Bostick]

Damn! I was in Sens for the first time on V-Day (I was part of the party of five that came in late) and have been talking Sens up to my friends ever since.

I'm thinking hopeful thoughts in your direction, and wishing you luck. Anything else a not-quite-stranger can do for you?

[mel]

So sorry to hear the news. I enjoyed your dessert at Sens just last month, but was too shy to tell you. It is Sens loss. With your passion and talent, I know something good will come of this. Does this mean more classes?

[vanessa]

Oh, I'm so sad now! For a while I've been obsessing about eating your desserts when I visit California this summer. Your blog makes my day better.
-another pastry lady, on the opposite coast

[Meredith K.]

Oh,how this business can just be a crusher....no matter how much craft and passion you put into the work,things can turn around[behind your back] so fast.I think that we are entering increasingly merciless times.Stay Strong...

[Rev. Biggles]

Hay,

I have a game over at MH and have tagged you for a meme. You can either accept or decline, but wanted to stop by an offer to come and play in my sandbox.

Biggles

[Dolores]

Damn. We were going to make reservations next week, when our lives slowed down a bit. And we *would* have been there for the dessert.

[Kung Foodie Kat]

You know we love you...the passion, the heart, the soul, the gifts you keep giving us all. D and I both felt that was simply the best holiday ever, having been able to experience and share it with you. There is more to come.....

[Susan]

Oh Shuna, I can hardly believe that we ate there on your last night :( The desserts were ALL glorious as usual, our favorite of the night was Citrus! It was unanimous.