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July 2008

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18 July 2008

BlogHer Conference Weekend!

Just in case I seem like I'm ignoring
                you and sleep and questions and comments and eating and baking and home and my dishes and the telephone and breakfast and                             flirtations and possible jobs and the chilly weather and my side of the bay,

I am.

Starting right now, BlogHer 08 begins
and won't end until Sunday evening.

Remember last year? This year I don't have to go far (unfortunately)-- it's in San Francisco.

p.s. if you blog you can go. and be any gender you want! it's the largest blogging conference there is and it's a big hit of inspiration and learning and meeting people and getting perspective.

17 July 2008

Sunday New York Times: July 20, 2008 {!}

Img_3762This coming Sunday you may want to pick up the NY Times. Look for something written by the inimitable Amanda Hesser.
July 20, 2008.Img_3279_2
It will be a special day indeed.
Well, for me, at any rate.

See you soon?

 

yuba river boyfriend.

Img_6029after swim-exploring I found a rock to sit on.
for quite a while.
I was chatting with a new friend and an old friend.
then they swam away.
and I sat and sat and smiled and watched and took it all in.
children, parents, crazy teenagers, almost teenage girls giggling and whispering, heavily tattooed fellows with shorn heads and broad shoulders, one puppy carrying his own leash both swimming, kissing and whimpering, women in straw hats, siblings, vacationers and locals, glamorous swimmers and androgynous women... we were all there, laughing and chatting. friendly. content. amazed by our surroundings.

a young man appeared on a baby whale of a boulder and surveyed.
dressed all in camouflage, his bronzed young body and neat now hairstyle questioned an impending swim.
i looked up. disbelief that he had to think about getting in at all.

"what are you waiting for?" i called out to him. "the water is delicious!"
he stripped quickly and jumped in. there were deep spots, and yet each plunge someone made from a high surface stilled my breath for a few heartbeats.Img_6059

in a few minutes he showed up on the top of the granite again.

"why aren't you swimming?" i questioned. teasing.
"i have no company," he said. i puzzled. i motioned to the empty flat slant of rock i sat on.
"can i join you?" i nodded.
in half a moment he was there too, beside me.

"no one is here with you? you come with anyone?" he was translating from Spanish to English.
"no one is here with me right now. did you come with anyone?" he points to two friends, at the top of the stairs, right next to the old bridge. one is a boy, one is not. neither are making any attempt to venture down sharp rocks.
"you have a boyfriend?" he asks suddenly, plainly. i laugh.
"no. you have a girlfriend?"
"no. you want to be my girlfriend?"
"i don't live here," i say, attempting to explain.
"you come here again?"
"i hope so."
"do you have a cell phone number?" now i can't keep up withImg_6078 explaining.
"maybe you can remember mine if i tell you?"
"i don't know when i'll be back. maybe one day..."
"which day?"
"August." i reply, stumbling.

"what day?"

-----
o to return to a simpler time,
when all one needed to get a boyfriend was a place in the sun, on a rock, in the water.

       summer.

10 July 2008

How To Make Snickerdoodles!

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You all have been waiting soooo patiently!

You've been teased.

And promised.

And tempted.

And some of you have even taken nibbles.

But now.

Right now.

I have a recipe, method, step-by-step instruction and photos,

and

if you live close by

you could even taste one.

Follow the bowl of swirling cinnamon sugar

to Simply Recipes where I'm guest authoring.

SNICKERDOODLES.

                     /and you thought the day would never arrive. awww. i keeps my promises!

08 July 2008

blind date.

nervous.
o, what to wear.
too hot outside.
clean the house.
thoroughly.
why?
something to do with all that strange energy.

blind dates are brave.

pick the restaurant.
second guess the choice a hundred times.
don't want to go someplace where everyone and the dishwasher know me.
or have crush on chef. or baker.
but want delicious food.
nervous.
giddy.
hot. oppressively so.

what if
it's dreadful,
feels too long,
can't get away fast enough?

but it's none of the above.
lovely.
more under the surface than one might know from a glance.
east coast. Jersey.
fishes. fly & sea.
freckles. and Jewish.
musician too.
has no tv, although has watched the Sopranos.
strong. works with hands.
this is important to me.
an upstart, too!

orders goat, i get porchetta.

it's an unexpected pleasure.
i like meeting new people.

an exceptional extra ordinary Royal Blenheim apricot sorbet sat between us.
tiny butter cookie speckled with polenta, sea salt and a raw sugar.
    yes, please.

and just to prove how small a world is.
we know someone in common.
someone i've known since my childhood.
Polly Frizzell. through bluegrass.
go figure.

walked away tingly.
not knowing, no.
but taking in the moment, experience.
have had a lot of dead end crushes lately,
would rather
    stolen kisses
    something to think about besides baked goods.
not that baked goods aren't fun. they are.

but it's summer
.
and yes, there's also stone fruit, and bush berries, and coconut cream pie, and hot biscuits and ice cream and shorts and river swims and
everyone is out and about
looking good.
i'm looking for delicious people.
if you know anyone,
registration is now open.
xo

04 July 2008

The Fourth of July!

today is:

chocolate buttermilk cake
sticky buns
beignets !
sweet potato pieImg_4448
caramel cake with caramelized butter frosting
a spoonful of the best coconut pastry cream, if I love you
snickerdoodles
chocolate chocolate chip cookies
bacon-scallion-cheddar biscuitsImg_4430
limeade
mint lemonadeImg_4431
strawberry lemonade
lacy yeasted cornmeal waffles with brown sugar butter
creamed corn
warm buttermilk biscuits and local jam
blue bottle coffee
homemade granolaImg_5361
black cast iron skillet baked cornbread
grits
a giant smoker filled with ribs and chicken
perfectly poached eggs
watermelon
real vanilla ice cream
honest iced tea
fresh squozed orange juice
R&B
a dash of hip hop
old school soul
hot cooks
even hotter bakers
corn on the cob
friends
barking

and beautiful
big
explosions of light
and colour
in the broad
grand
mighty
night sky.

happy fourth.
be safe, sane & consensual, and responsible tonight. /please.
just think:
you may even want to remember what you did today, tomorrow. just sayin'

see you soon?

03 July 2008

I Am Going To Bed With Someone Wonderful Every Night.

518oznzpbxl_sl500_aa240_

How To Become A Famous Writer Before You're Dead

Your Words In Print And Your Name In Lights

by Ariel Gore.

Do you know her?

Have you bedded her as well?

There are moments in time when all you need is unlimited support. Unconditional love. Complete understanding. Inspiration beyond the beyond.

Whether you want to be a writer or a chef or an astronaut, this book will be helpful.

I like to read novels. Besides magazines and the food section of a few American newspapers I don't find non-fiction or self help books to be of much use.

But I love this book.

And Right Now,

Going to bed with it every night makes me feel like everything's going to be ok. Even though it's not.

The list price for the paperback is $11.16.

It will be the best almost $15 you spend if buy it. This is a woman who believes in you but can also light a small loving fire under your tuchas to get your life into gear and help you eradicate excuses and rationalizations. With 261 tiny chapters, your story about why you can't _____ will shrivel up and die.

Titles of chapters include:

Get Your Heart Smashed, But Just Once Or Twice

Fight For Your Time

Take The Book's Dare

Write

Dream

Relax The Rules

I am in love with this book. As soon as I am done I will re-read it because although I am attempting to savor every touch, caress, kiss, prod, poke and shake, I'm already staying up way past my bedtime and reading it too fast. This week I am waking up every day at 4 am, so those minutes count...

Do let me know if you've read it and what you think too. Spread the word!

/thank you beckyfresh for giving it to me even though I said I don't read these sorts of books...

28 June 2008

Catering vs. Restaurant Cooking

I have spent the last 3 days in the best catering company I have ever had the pleasure to work for.
This place makes just about every chef, pastry chef, prep cook, dishwasher, sous chef
in restaurants
look
bad.
If catering isn't organized, it's nothing.
And if food coming from a catering kitchen doesn't taste good,
unfortunately,
it's normal.

You might never catch me saying this again, so take your seat:
Sometimes too much organization can be a bad thing. In commercial cooking environments.
An insane amount of organization is linked with
    corporate kitchens
        and Master Pastry Chefs.

It's a fine line we walk when the imperative is NO WASTE.   

There's a lot of math when it comes to organizing recipes in catering kitchens.
Allow me be more specific.
Today I needed to bake off approximately 200 pot de cremes.
In demitasse cups. (They are a bit larger than espresso cups.)
The little ramekin-like containers needed to be placed in "200 pans" = meaning shallow stainless steel Hotel Pans. Very tightly.
First I spaced them nicely and counted 18 per pan.
Pastry chef came along shaking her head.
Reminding me that I had about 800 custards to bake today, she said cram 'em in tight.
This goes against my internal overprotective pot de creme baking parent, but I did as she said.

In convection oven we could fit 3 200 pans. In still oven, 2.
I had about 125 custards baking at the same time for about 6 hours straight.
I managed to lock in 23-26 cups per pan.
Some ovens move faster than others.
It was a fun day.

This catering kitchen employs a big gun. A lot of ammunition.
They are using restaurant tricks, but in a large scale environment.
They hire restaurant chefs and cooks
and then play the game better than restaurants
can.
    boo ya!

Restaurant cooks think catering is for wusses.
There's a whole hierarchy in restaurant cooking mentality that places restaurant cooking at the top
and a whole slew of other food jobs below.
It's a macho thing, yes, but also
a creative gripe.

The idea is that catering is about repetition.
But not in the same way that actual line cooking is.
Catering is about numbers.
Of guests. Of dollars. Of food you can re-heat on the fly.
Of desserts that can wait out side for people to get married.

The concept is that there's more spontaneity in line cooking or restaurant work because little is set in stone, (the exception being, of course, Corporate environments. Example above.)
But what if for every party you book you do not offer the same menu as the last party or the party this very same client got last year or month?
What if every catering chef could pick his or her team and ingredients?
What if the prep team actually did their job and finished their list and was held to as high a standard as the higher paid officials?
What if all that organization meant there was more time for creativity because one wasn't always putting out stupid fires?

What if that catering company hired the best cooks and pastry chefs and butchers in the land?
And made everything from scratch?
And, [are you sitting?], paid everyone a living wage?

Just like restaurants.

Oof. Watch out.

       /Now who's the shoemaker?

No kitchen is perfect.
And not every type of cooking environment is for the next person.
I don't think I'll ever end up in a hotel kitchen, for example.
But my g-d has been known to have a sense of humour before.
So I never say never.

But this catering kitchen is nice.

And if your restaurant mind is open to the possibility
you could learn a few
or a thousand
helpful tricks.

In 3 days, my highlights:
Made a full sheet pan & a 1/2 of cream biscuits.
Cornmeal-Thyme crisp topping for peaches.
Big batch of cracker dough.
Sheeted cracker dough into transparently thin full sheets all day.
Brushed crackers with egg white wash, sprinkled with salt and some of them took seeds as well.
Baked crackers.
Made the largest batch of creme brulee base I've ever encountered ~ @180 egg yolks, 5 Gallons manufacturing cream & 1/2 & 1/2, and over 5 # sugar... !
Learned how to use a hand held stainlesss steel conical liquid dispenser/portioner!

This is my new favorite tool.

Today I will work "on site." The catering company is packing out 5 or 6 parties for today. Unlike a lot of restaurants in the Bay Area, they're busy.

And me?
Yes, it's nice to be in challenging environment where learning is possible no matter which way I turn.
Not married to any one particular kitchen.
Still "At Large."

But so happy to be of service.

                ~ p.s. the coconut cream pie faerie has visited me again btw...

27 June 2008

Porchetta. It's All the Rage!

Img_4673Everyone's doing it.

    In the streets.
    On the floor.

Mmmmm Porchetta....

Pigs doin it.
People eatin' it.
Cooks butcherin'.
Knives slicin' it.
Twine a wrappin'.
Ovens roastin'.
Juices flowin'.
Belly a renderin'.
Pan juices sizzlin'.
Fingers gettin' a lickin'.
Mouths a waterin'.

Porchetta.

Sounds so succint. Humble. Simple. Regal. Rustic.

Delicious.

And thank g-d it's Friday.
Tonight, {and every Friday},
if you live nearby,
    you can get yours
at Sea Salt.

Prepared with love and care,
& a healthy dash of New York humor and irreverence,
by none other than,
Anthony Paone, chef of all days of the week, and the eighth one too.

Sit at the kitchen counter.
Give him hell.

/And then tell him I sent you.

Sea Salt
2512 San Pablo Avenue
Berkeley, Ca. 94702
510/ 883.1720

26 June 2008

Bar Jules. Hayes Valley, San Francisco

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Bar Jules

Go.

You won't be disappointed.

Unless delicious food is not what you're after.

609 Hayes Street

San Francisco, California

94102

ph. /415. 621. 5482

  all I can say is zow.


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