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in season ~

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08 July 2008

blind date.

nervous.
o, what to wear.
too hot outside.
clean the house.
thoroughly.
why?
something to do with all that strange energy.

blind dates are brave.

pick the restaurant.
second guess the choice a hundred times.
don't want to go someplace where everyone and the dishwasher know me.
or have crush on chef. or baker.
but want delicious food.
nervous.
giddy.
hot. oppressively so.

what if
it's dreadful,
feels too long,
can't get away fast enough?

but it's none of the above.
lovely.
more under the surface than one might know from a glance.
east coast. Jersey.
fishes. fly & sea.
freckles. and Jewish.
musician too.
has no tv, although has watched the Sopranos.
strong. works with hands.
this is important to me.
an upstart, too!

orders goat, i get porchetta.

it's an unexpected pleasure.
i like meeting new people.

an exceptional extra ordinary Royal Blenheim apricot sorbet sat between us.
tiny butter cookie speckled with polenta, sea salt and a raw sugar.
    yes, please.

and just to prove how small a world is.
we know someone in common.
someone i've known since my childhood.
Polly Frizzell. through bluegrass.
go figure.

walked away tingly.
not knowing, no.
but taking in the moment, experience.
have had a lot of dead end crushes lately,
would rather
    stolen kisses
    something to think about besides baked goods.
not that baked goods aren't fun. they are.

but it's summer
.
and yes, there's also stone fruit, and bush berries, and coconut cream pie, and hot biscuits and ice cream and shorts and river swims and
everyone is out and about
looking good.
i'm looking for delicious people.
if you know anyone,
registration is now open.
xo

05 July 2008

superfly.

Bsk_sunglasses

it's not about who you know

or who cooks your food

or who you know who cooks

Bsk_sunglasses

or if you know who cooks your food.

but

it's important to know

how cool those cooks are

who are cooking food

when they're cooking

for you.

Bsk_sunglasses

~ photographs by the one and only, mr. fabulous, phil surkis!

04 July 2008

The Fourth of July!

today is:

chocolate buttermilk cake
sticky buns
beignets !
sweet potato pieImg_4448
caramel cake with caramelized butter frosting
a spoonful of the best coconut pastry cream, if I love you
snickerdoodles
chocolate chocolate chip cookies
bacon-scallion-cheddar biscuitsImg_4430
limeade
mint lemonadeImg_4431
strawberry lemonade
lacy yeasted cornmeal waffles with brown sugar butter
creamed corn
warm buttermilk biscuits and local jam
blue bottle coffee
homemade granolaImg_5361
black cast iron skillet baked cornbread
grits
a giant smoker filled with ribs and chicken
perfectly poached eggs
watermelon
real vanilla ice cream
honest iced tea
fresh squozed orange juice
R&B
a dash of hip hop
old school soul
hot cooks
even hotter bakers
corn on the cob
friends
barking

and beautiful
big
explosions of light
and colour
in the broad
grand
mighty
night sky.

happy fourth.
be safe, sane & consensual, and responsible tonight. /please.
just think:
you may even want to remember what you did today, tomorrow. just sayin'

see you soon?

01 July 2008

July is ~

Img_5303summer
resolute.

sand
beach
swimming
the scent of suntan lotion and cigarettes.

mosquitoes
camp
friends
new crushes and grand loves.

boardwalk
stolen kisses
toes exposed and elbows out of car windows.

ice cream
fire hydrants, open, and everyone screaming in the street under its wide arc of spray. Img_4760

shorts
sleeveless
stickyness
sunburn
cool sheets
late nights
porches
lemonade
sweet cocktails and sweating beer bottles.

grills
BBQ's
wood
singe
sizzle
marshmallows, meltingImg_5317
coal
dry twigs arranged like a tee pee, and set afire.

bonfires
ghost stories
camping
canoes
fishing
salads for dinner and watermelon for breakfast.

sleeping in
sunsets taking forever and skies as bright as a broad smile.

lobster
raw clams
Italian ices
zeppoles hot and oily and white and sweet.Img_5370

hide and seek
cicadas
fireflies
okra
tomato everything and corn on the cob.

reflection
memory
remembrance
solitude.

wading
clamming
boating
sailingImg_5447
surfing
being tossed and turned by waves before a storm.

lakes
ponds
sunshowers
rivers
docksImg_1486
diving
sparklers alive and fiercely hot, for just a moment.

fireworks
gunpowder scent
oohs and ahhs in the dark, and then quiet.

figs
ferries
islands
adventures
play
long hard sleep and dreams of picking blackberries.

blueberriesImg_1472
pie
cobblers
buckles
galettes
whipped cream.Img_1529

nectarines and basil
mint and peaches
plums and rosemary
nepotella infused in cream for bright ice cream.

home
heart
love
loss
grief

changeImg_1778
transition
betwixt & between then and now and tomorrow.

travel
spontaneity
secrets
cherries
simple cakes and floury hands.Nyc_june_05_110

Coney Island!
grandparents
bikinis
hot nights
hanging out on the stoop until the wee hours.

J U L Y.

Summer!
    full stop.

HAPPY july!

28 June 2008

Catering vs. Restaurant Cooking

I have spent the last 3 days in the best catering company I have ever had the pleasure to work for.
This place makes just about every chef, pastry chef, prep cook, dishwasher, sous chef
in restaurants
look
bad.
If catering isn't organized, it's nothing.
And if food coming from a catering kitchen doesn't taste good,
unfortunately,
it's normal.

You might never catch me saying this again, so take your seat:
Sometimes too much organization can be a bad thing. In commercial cooking environments.
An insane amount of organization is linked with
    corporate kitchens
        and Master Pastry Chefs.

It's a fine line we walk when the imperative is NO WASTE.   

There's a lot of math when it comes to organizing recipes in catering kitchens.
Allow me be more specific.
Today I needed to bake off approximately 200 pot de cremes.
In demitasse cups. (They are a bit larger than espresso cups.)
The little ramekin-like containers needed to be placed in "200 pans" = meaning shallow stainless steel Hotel Pans. Very tightly.
First I spaced them nicely and counted 18 per pan.
Pastry chef came along shaking her head.
Reminding me that I had about 800 custards to bake today, she said cram 'em in tight.
This goes against my internal overprotective pot de creme baking parent, but I did as she said.

In convection oven we could fit 3 200 pans. In still oven, 2.
I had about 125 custards baking at the same time for about 6 hours straight.
I managed to lock in 23-26 cups per pan.
Some ovens move faster than others.
It was a fun day.

This catering kitchen employs a big gun. A lot of ammunition.
They are using restaurant tricks, but in a large scale environment.
They hire restaurant chefs and cooks
and then play the game better than restaurants
can.
    boo ya!

Restaurant cooks think catering is for wusses.
There's a whole hierarchy in restaurant cooking mentality that places restaurant cooking at the top
and a whole slew of other food jobs below.
It's a macho thing, yes, but also
a creative gripe.

The idea is that catering is about repetition.
But not in the same way that actual line cooking is.
Catering is about numbers.
Of guests. Of dollars. Of food you can re-heat on the fly.
Of desserts that can wait out side for people to get married.

The concept is that there's more spontaneity in line cooking or restaurant work because little is set in stone, (the exception being, of course, Corporate environments. Example above.)
But what if for every party you book you do not offer the same menu as the last party or the party this very same client got last year or month?
What if every catering chef could pick his or her team and ingredients?
What if the prep team actually did their job and finished their list and was held to as high a standard as the higher paid officials?
What if all that organization meant there was more time for creativity because one wasn't always putting out stupid fires?

What if that catering company hired the best cooks and pastry chefs and butchers in the land?
And made everything from scratch?
And, [are you sitting?], paid everyone a living wage?

Just like restaurants.

Oof. Watch out.

       /Now who's the shoemaker?

No kitchen is perfect.
And not every type of cooking environment is for the next person.
I don't think I'll ever end up in a hotel kitchen, for example.
But my g-d has been known to have a sense of humour before.
So I never say never.

But this catering kitchen is nice.

And if your restaurant mind is open to the possibility
you could learn a few
or a thousand
helpful tricks.

In 3 days, my highlights:
Made a full sheet pan & a 1/2 of cream biscuits.
Cornmeal-Thyme crisp topping for peaches.
Big batch of cracker dough.
Sheeted cracker dough into transparently thin full sheets all day.
Brushed crackers with egg white wash, sprinkled with salt and some of them took seeds as well.
Baked crackers.
Made the largest batch of creme brulee base I've ever encountered ~ @180 egg yolks, 5 Gallons manufacturing cream & 1/2 & 1/2, and over 5 # sugar... !
Learned how to use a hand held stainlesss steel conical liquid dispenser/portioner!

This is my new favorite tool.

Today I will work "on site." The catering company is packing out 5 or 6 parties for today. Unlike a lot of restaurants in the Bay Area, they're busy.

And me?
Yes, it's nice to be in challenging environment where learning is possible no matter which way I turn.
Not married to any one particular kitchen.
Still "At Large."

But so happy to be of service.

                ~ p.s. the coconut cream pie faerie has visited me again btw...

26 June 2008

Bar Jules. Hayes Valley, San Francisco

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Bar Jules

Go.

You won't be disappointed.

Unless delicious food is not what you're after.

609 Hayes Street

San Francisco, California

94102

ph. /415. 621. 5482

  all I can say is zow.

23 June 2008

The Kitchen Sisters - Hidden Kitchens go to London June 26, WNPR

Whew. Say that a few times fast. No, better yet, tune in to NPR's morning edition this Thursday and "listen with me." (At your house with tea and crumpets? Sure.)

This is what they recently wrote to me:

"The story will most likely air at 5:50 AM and 7:50 in California, although it differs from station to station. But, people will be able to listen online on NPR's site. The easiest way for people to get to the story is by going to our Hidden Kitchens site and it will re-direct to the Hidden Kitchen page on NPR.org  "

This Thursday the smart, funny, inquisitive, interesting and bodacious Kitchen Sisters go to London to find out about Garden Allotments in London. The story is bittersweet but I won't give it away. You'll just have to listen with me...

Who are the the Kitchen Sisters? Click on that link and you'll see and read about 'em. No use in paraphrasing a nicely written website. I had the pleasure of reading with Davia Nelson last year at Litquake and let's just say she knows what she's doing. I am ashamed to say I haven't heard any of the Hidden Kitchens series but I plan to change all that this Thursday June 26.

Have you listened in before? Wanna listen with me for the first time too?

If you don't live in the USA, you may subscribe to their podcast by following instructions here...

20 June 2008

Hot Kitchens.

Img_6811 Do you know what makes most kitchens really hot?

Freezers. And walk in refrigerators. And lowboys. And reach ins. Ice machines.
You wouldn't think. But it's so.

Kitchens can get really hot.

Img_6832

Let us not forget flat tops. And salamanders. Or grills. And then there's saute, where there might be pans sitting on burners that have been on full blast all day. And cast iron? Shit. I have seen them glow orange. For real. They can get really hot. But there's nothing like cooking a la plancha. O yeah.

What else?

Fryolators are hot. Really hot. Hot radiant heat not to mention a container filled with searing hot oil. We won't leave behind wood burning ovens and, if you're really lucky, reaching up to handle those bars in rotisseries taller than your local basketball star.

Hot.

Kitchens are hot.

I'm forgetting something? O, sorry.Img_9852

Deck ovens are hot. Tandoori ovens are hot. Pulling sugar is hot and so is whisking sabayon for an hour straight. Stock is hot. Plate warmers are hot. So are bread warmers, of course.

Img_1185 Commercial dishwashers are hot. By health code standards they should be, at any rate. The hotter the better: less detergent can be used if heat is what is the sanitizing force. Having to put away hot dishes is hot. A lot of steam exists in the dish pit. A lot.

And steam? Steam is really fucking hot. The burn you get from steam is like being taken advantage of by a child. You never expect it. And then Whoosh! Red streak on flesh and sooner than you can say   nanosecond   you have a blister.

One could make an argument for the heat of hot ice or liquid nitrogen but they're not commonly found in kitchens unless you're ladling up eye of newt and bat's wing specials.

Img_9402

Hot Kitchens.

    Wait, there's more. If you act now --

Cooking and baking with a sunburn is hot. And terrifically unpleasant. After you've fallen asleep on the beach on your only day off in 3 months once, you won't do it again. Take it from me. There's nothing like reaching into a 500F oven when your skin is the color of freshly killed lobsters.

Reducing is hot. So is candying of any sort, especially when you have to boil sugar for hours to get just 2 more degrees on your thermometer. {!}
Img_1232

Roasting is hot. And searing. Even blanching, albeit brief, is hot. Poaching? I guess we could make an argument if we're desperate.

Funny, when you burn yourself, I mean really burn, it feels cold first. Like buried under an avalanche and getting sleepy cold. And then for a tiny moment when your brain hits refresh, it fells hot to your core. By then, hopefully, you're in shock, and so you don't feel much after that except worry that you'll be in the weeds even more. Nothing like grabbing onto something really hot and realizing later that the steam you saw was your own skin evaporating.

Kitchens are hot.

And so we tun off our minds. We make jokes. The refrigeration starts to shudder and choke, and then die. The ice machine gets indignant. Someone has to go buy ice. Which is really funny if you think about it. But of course it's not.

You might even have the pleasure of standing on the hot roof and hosing down the condenser for about 8 or 12 hours, until the sun goes down. But only if you're the chef or sous. Yes, you have to be The Chosen One for that job.Img_7943

Hot.

When it gets hot ovens bake faster. Did you know that? Cakes don't necessarily rise better but everything should be checked on with more frequency.  Cold water is warm. Edibles made with yeast should be rushed like you have some place to be yesterday. Proofing the bread? Five hours is 50 minutes. Twenty minutes could be two. Be on your toes, yo, when it's hot.

Cold butter doesn't stay cold.

Sweat evaporates and it could be a few days until you really pee. A relaxing pee that lasts more than a moment. Sound gross?

Cooking is hot business.Img_3244

    I haven't left out anything,      have I?

In The South there's a joke about cornstarch/ talcum powder, and the boxer shorts you shouldn't be wearing, but I'll leave that to your imagination.

Hot weather produces violence. In some kitchens it makes people fight. Or go mute. Or fuck.

Because line cooks are hot. Except when they're gross. But there's always a market for gross.

Img_6653

Hot.

Flirtations run high. Patience become a virtue left for the "normies"/ diners/ working stiffs/ waiters. Sexual tension is hot. So is that space between your long sleeved polyester-blend double-buttoned jacket and suffocating skin. Tempers run hot.

Some will say that the best beverage in hot weather is hot liquid. Ice becomes the enemy to truly cooling down your system. Except when dunking your arms in ice water is the only thing you can do to keep from passing out.
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Summer is hot. Restaurants with poor ventilation systems are really hot. Restaurants that are free standing buildings in neighborhoods with no trees or taller buildings to create shade are really hot. Restaurants with prep stations in windowless rooms are ferociously hot.
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I remember well "sweat" pouring down the walls at Gramercy Tavern. (In NYC most restaurant kitchens are located in the basement. That pretty open kitchen you're looking into as you lazily munch crudo and sip cocktails? That's for show. Only? Well I'll go on record as saying: mostly.)

Kitchens are hot.

And when kitchens are not hot?

You're not in them.

Napa Valley Eating & Imbibing

Img_4904While I was staying at the farm last week, I did manage to pry myself away from dog walking and reading the New Yorker long enough to eat and drink a bit in the new & improved Napa Valley.

Almost 10 years ago, when I lived in Napa, the city proper, downtown was basically a memory for a few people. The old movie theater was mostly "closed for renovations," block after block in the historic area was dusty and cobwebbed or being torn down, and visiting the post office was sometimes the highlight of my week.

Not so anymore.

The place has exploded.

You can get exquisite, inky, oily, sweet, freshly roasted espresso at Ritual, one of the best {vegetarian} meals in California at Ubuntu, real mint mint chocolate chip ice cream at Three Twins, just about any meat or meat product you want or have never heard of at Fatted CalfImg_4672 {our guy Guy took some of the best FC Img_4897photos-- check em out here}, illegally delicious coffee cake at Alexis Baking Company, gorgeous and delectable desserts by Nicole Plue, and produce grown with everloving care, if you choose to wake early and go to the St. Helena farmers' market.

Of course there are a hundred more restaurants and dozens of more eateries and imbibing stations, but above is what I got to on this go-around.

17 June 2008

Chefs Who Open Restaurants. /A Metaphor {involving unapproved psychoanalysis}

There's someone in your family who has a problem. Gambling. Drugs. Alcohol. Sex.
It could be any or all of the above. Every family has a secret problem person. And sometimes they're not a secret.
You hate this person. And you love them. And sometimes you feel both things and they are so intertwined you don't even know you're in a forest among trees.
But their addiction maddens you. Frustrates, annoys, tortures.
You think,
"This aunt of mine is so smart. My brother has everything, what is he doing wasting it all? Why can't my mother get her act together? I hate that we have to move every time my father loses all his money from ______. I wish we weren't going to that cousin's house for Thanksgiving, I get so embarrassed when she gets wasted, she's too old to act like that!"

Addiction is a powerful force. Humans are its hosts, and it will stop at nothing to separate you from what and whom you love, as it kills you slowly.

Passion can feel like addiction. Passion, obsession, addiction; they are all closely related although slightly dissimilar.

Some passions can feel like obsessions or addictions because the drive that is within us to pursue our passions stays in our line of vision when red flags are popping up on all sides. Being a visionary, a dreamer, a doer, an entrepreneur, means forging on even when practicalities outweigh the validity of the mirage.

A friend once told me that people who open businesses have to be good business people, of course, to make it stand and walk and live; but moreover they have to have a larger dose of dreamer in them to get such an idea off the ground before wings are formed. A dreamer trusts in something else, some other, deeper part of themselves. A dreamer is a survivor in that she/he knows picking up a broken self and starting all over again might be in the cards.

One has to be prepared for loss when one dreams.
Turning dreams into matter could also be compared to having a child.

It never ceases to amaze me how women I know who have become pregnant, and had children, swear they will be the same person after childbirth. But there is always a transformation. And it seems so obvious after the fact, that they never mention it again. A major calamity, an act bringing on extreme grief, will create transformation as well, but since birth gives and grief takes away, the grieving person has little outward proof of their reason for change.

All these metaphors are related to chefs who open their own restaurants.

Back to addiction. It's possible that no one in your immediate life has had a struggle with addiction. Although I would find it implausible, especially if you grew up in urban America, as I did. In my own family many people have lived with and through imperiling addictions. Joyous for me, many of those family members have found 12 Step programs and become sober.

But hoping beyond hope, praying every moment of the day for someone's sobriety is a tricky thing.

We think that if said person stops drinking, or buying white powder, or sneaking off with the rent check to basement card games, everything will be normal again. Groovy and just so and perfect and happy.

But what we don't know, right up until that very last drink or prostitute or wager or glassine envelope, is that said person is someone completely unknown to us. That said person without a substance is no person without a reason to live. And we, the other humans in the room, are not reason enough to bring said person back from the edge of the grave or sanity or wherever their self esteem found its last refuge. Person in question can not and will not give up their drug of choice just because we want them to.

The person in our life who can abstain, and therefore halt the deadliest physical side affects of addiction, and replace that black hole with something unrelated to the mortal world, is a stranger, until we take the time to meet them again.

This might seem like a very dark example for the subject at hand, but in my world everything is like a language that is connected by ideas, if not a visually familiar alphabet.

I have maintained in my posts about Opening A Restaurant here on Eggbeater, restaurants are like children, or babies, which non-traditional families make. Non-traditional in that there are usually far more people involved in opening a restaurant than there are needed to have sex and conceive a human child.

We have that spark, it makes us giddy and sleepless, happiness reaches critical mass and we are delirious with ideas and hopes and dreams, we pray there's someone whose feet are planted on the ground who likes math and understands percentages, sometimes we get cravings and/or morning sickness, and pretty soon we are truly sleepless because the restaurant is all mouths and stomach and #2 and there's never enough time or food or energy to satiate the helpless beast infant.

The baby metaphor is like the sober alcoholic family member. See?

Because the chef who is now the owner wanted more than anything to open a restaurant. That was their "Story." Their only story.

            I Am Chef. Must Open Restaurant. To Prove I Am Real Chef. Must Have Proof. Restaurant. Must Be Mine.

But didn't know that once restaurant was fed 24 hours a day and bathed and diapers were changed ad nauseum and tiny nails were clipped and doors were left open so that even the tiniest whisper of a cry could be answered immediately, the restaurant turns into someone something else.

    Restaurants are run by people, by many many many egos. Even if it is The Chef's Baby.

And something odd happens to the chef whose restaurant is turning into an opinionated child in front of them. The chef must mourn the loss of their dream. Or part of it, at least.

The same way you want your best friend to get sober but when she does she's not the same person anymore and if you want to stay in her life you have to give her a lot of rope, time, patience and empathy, and then you have to re-introduce yourselves. And you might even have to go to therapy or a 12 Step meeting, or 20, to understand your part. It's usually more than you bargained for when all you thought you wanted was for that person to give up the thing which seemed to be making them into a monster.

For better and for worse, and all that murky grey stuff in between, The Restaurant becomes someone you don't recognize and you have to go with the flow, or be left in the dust. And a Restaurant without a leader is a lost soul. Whether there's coup or a closure, restaurants require herding, a forceful, directed lasso and guidance, by someone, into helping them become whomever they are becoming.

Life is a wild and woolly ride. If life is a verb for you, that is. If your passions take hold and don't let go until dreams are conceived and born and let loose to run amok, and create terror and delicious food and and, and, and and and.

Perhaps those of us who know, only work as cogs in massive dream machines. Perhaps those who dream must be brought down to earth every once and while to have a drink with the pragmatists to sober up and see some leaves on some branches and maybe even a tree or two.

I know this. For every hope there is a process and the need for an application of hard internal, as well as the obvious, external work. If you are a chef owner who thinks there is no transformation, whether necessary or possible or inevitable, when leaping over the wall from cook to owner, you have a nest full of chicks in eggs who will hatch wing-less. In an argument about nature vs. nurture you must understand that the restaurant, who it will become with and without your care and presence, is not an either/or situation.

As is with the case of the person whom you love very much, who has just barely escaped a walking or actual death, a re-configuration of your hopes must be assessed and put in order.

For while there is time to stand back and be puzzled and frustrated, and become silent and incommunicative, and feel betrayed that Your Baby is not who you want or think it should be, you do not have all the time in the world, for it will become an anarchistic star, burning out on its own from lack of structure and acceptance. Like a Rock Star.

If you are the chef and the owner, it is your job, and no one else's, to take responsibility for your restaurant's success. And this takes rolling up your sleeves for hard internal work. For the cogs may be able to help you, and give you a portal from which to travel to the Ray Bradbury moon where you can watch your unconscious play leading role in Greek tragedy after Greek tragedy, but they cannot stop the momentum of your actions, or inactions, as they pertain to The Restaurant Baby you have given birth to. For the cogs will come and go, no matter how much they care in the moment.

And if you resist? If you resist transformation, or the knowledge of transformation, or change, or that X-ray vision or anything else that comes along with a life changing experience, I have only one question.

        How's that working out for you?


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