Anson Mills: extra ordinary flours!

A few months ago I was working at one of the most innovative (food based) businesses I have ever seen or been part of. The space is 90% professional kitchen, decked out with many dream details. Copper pots; the real ones that are too heavy to lift once they have water or something scary like frothing caramel in them, four panels of flat-top, a deep inset water bath for jarring, overhead cold water spouts, a tiny fryer, long wooden tables against the walls and all the pastry pans and ring molds one could fantasize about. Everything was new, clean and sparkly. Open shelves around the perimeter housed Venetian crystal and one-of-a-kind Bernadaud plates and vessels. Spices, herbs, sugars and sea salts form the world's oceans were kept in antique French glass and mason jars of all shapes and sizes.

On Sundays I made pate choux doughnuts dusted with a sugar dust of rose petals and vanilla bean, and during the week we composed salads from the spotted leaves of fresh chicories and lettuces from Star Route and Mariquita, farms that parked their stands just paces from our door. Located in the Ferry Building, this business has a guaranteed clientele, thousands of people, who walk through this prime real estate property in San Francisco every day.

The chef ordered the most expensive ingredients from all over the country and world. Overnight I was introduced to ingredients I have only read about, in historical novels or cookbooks from countries and regions I probably won't ever find myself in. I spent a good portion of time in the research section of the big library. And I began to create recipes around these delicate ingredients.

It's no secret that my first love in cooking and baking was The South. Soul food, to be exact. I am attracted to all things okra, bacon fat, watermelon, black eyed peas and corn on the cob.

Anson Mills, then, swept me off my Yankee feet. Cornmeal like it's supposed to be, buckwheat flour ethereal like nothing I had ever experienced. Zow. I made cornbread with melted butter, beurre noisette, lard and the tender of the tenderizing, duck fat. The cornmeal rolled and laughed lazily like drinking  sweet tea on the porch in the dense heat. It made love to buttermilk and intoxicated everyone as it baked.

Buckwheat flour remains a secret language. Old like the faeries, magical and ancient. Gaelic and Yiddish and Mayan. Do some research on the w.w.w. and what you'll find is a few hand-bound recipe books from small mills around the country that remind you there are few modern recipes for this forgotten ingredient. Buckwheat was a staple when wheat flour was seasonal and in the past many years has been ghettoized and relegated to pancakes only. Pancakes, that after one bite, you're done. Buckwheat flour: the heavy.

But Anson Mills buckwheat flour is wondrous. Featherlight, buttery, earthy perfume and gluten free. Tinged a light shade of blue, or Payne's gray to be exact, this flour has tiny dark bits that just barely sift, remains blue in the oven and creates an inexplicable smoky flavour that leaves many people scrunching their faces and saying ooooh because they don't know what new pleasure has overtaken them.

Ordering these flours is no small feat. One must order 25# at a time, Fed Ex, as they are ground to order and need to be frozen or refrigerated upon arrival. A few months ago I ordered 40# of buckwheat and 25# of cornmeal and re-sold them in varying quantities to friends and colleagues I had put the word out to about this company and their stellar products. I threw in three recipes to get people started.

Anson Mills cold stone grinds their heirloom organic wheat, corn and rice to order. They are more than happy to talk to you on the telephone and if you have a half hour to spare one day call them up. It will be, I guarantee, educational. Many folks are fanatical about their polenta integrale and the white grits are beautiful as well. I think that next on my list of delicacies to get from them is their Carolina Gold Rice. They appear to be single-handily saving it from obscurity and extinction.

buckwheat gateau breton

12 ounces unsalted butter, room temperature
1½ cups sugar
6 each egg yolks, room temperature
1½ tablespoons orange flower water
¾ teaspoon sea salt {I like to use a coarse one, like Maldon, so that it shows up}
2 cups flour, all purpose
1 cup Anson mills buckwheat flour
2 each egg whites, room temperature

preheat oven to 325°
butter and flour 2 each 9” cake pans or flouted tart pans with removable bottoms
on mixer at medium to high speed, with a paddle attachment, beat butter until smooth and light in color
add sugar to butter and beat until light and fluffy
scrape down bowl at least once
add yolks one at a time and incorporate fully after each addition
add orange flower water and sea salt, scrape down bowl and beat for at least two more minutes
sift both flours and turn mixer down to lowest setting
add flours gently in thirds just until batter is uniform
divide batter equally between two pans. press batter into pans with a small offset spatula. create pattern on top with fork.

whisk egg whites vigorously until very frothy. spoon on top and spread evenly. sprinkle a bit of white or turbinado/raw sugar if you wish.

bake until sharp knife/skewer inserted in middle comes out clean and top has begun to color.

This cake is a wonderful breakfast item. It's lovely warmed a bit in the oven. It will keep, unrefrigerated, for at least a week.

Comments

[Dr. Biggles]

I am not worthy, I am not worthy.

Dammit Shuna, you keep posting this stuff and I'm going to have to actually BAKE something. What's with all your inspiration anyway? You're a peach, thank you.

Biggles

[megwoo]

Okay, I'm sold on Anson Mills. Could you please, please post your cornbread recipe? I have a fridge full of duck fat (don't ask) and this sounds like a good way to use some of it up. Yum!

[jen]

I am so glad you posted this recipe ... I have been craving it ever since you gave me a piece of it like a month ago. Thanks.

[bandit]

that's what you do with the egg whites :)

[Fatemeh]

Oh... darnit, now I'm likely to have to bake something this weekend. Hey Biggles, I'll bake if you grill!

Meg - awesome idea for using up the duck fat... I have some myself, and have been trying to think up a way to use it. Because, clearly, confit is out of the question. Hmph.

[Sam]

Shuna - I made some crepes - real Bretagne style ones - from the buckwheat flour I bought from you and they were Delicious!
- but i realised I didnt get the recipes, so thanks for posting them here.

[Luisa]

Shuna - thank you so much for directing me to this recipe, I can't wait to try it! Buckwheat flour truly is a wondrous thing. And I have to second the plea for your cornbread recipe... ;)

[shuna]

Luisa,

I did indeed publish the cornbread recipe on this here site...just take a look around...it's worth the hunt! thanks for visiting and commenting. Your buckwheat cookies have inspired me too!

[Mary]

Could you please tell me approx. how long the buckwheat gateau breton needs to bake?

Mary

[shuna]

Hello Mary,

What I usually do for baked goods I know will take a long time is set my first timer for 20 minutes so that I can see how far it's come in that time and so I can turn the pan around. My next timer would be betw 10-15 minutes and then I'd test it.
Because this cake has no leavening it can easily trick you in the oven. I like mine to have a little color around the edges, but I haven't liked it as much when it's been drier than this.

So that others can benefit from this question and response can I your permission to put your question on my site along with this response?

Thank you for reading eggbeater, I hope your gateau Breton is a wonderful one. I love eating it for breakfast days afterwards.

[Star]

I have been nescient in response, but I still read your blog as often as possible. I wrote you last fall in regards to steamed cakes/puddings. I loved the KQED article. I developed a wonderful steamed walnut cake with brown sugar caramel, thanks to you. I made the buckwheat gateu today with fig/ meyer lemon jam (as a side) for my clients- I sold out on the restaurant world and cook for rich people now. I got sick of this crap of an industry after 5 years! But I want to go back, for some sick reason. Hang in there, when is your definitive dessert book coming out?

[Rachelle]

Hi Shuna,

Since Anson Mills doesn't sell the buckwheat flour retail (only wholesale), can I get on your list of people to contact when you purchase a large amount so that I could by a bit from you??? I'm dying to try it! Especially after hearing Alice Medrich talk about it yesterday at her book signing.

Thanks a bunch and love your site as much as ever!

Rachelle

[shuna fish lydon]

If you live close enough to hear Alice, check out Boulette's Larder-- they used to sell small quantities.

Your have 2 other options-- contact Anson Mills and ask them who might distribute/sell their product.

Or you can put together an order yourself. Contact everyone you know who might go in on an order with you, buy a bunch of ziplock bags and a scale and you're ready!

As a last resort you may want to come by where I'm working...

[Rachelle]

Thanks, Shuna.

I'll try your ideas, and let you know if I have to resort to the last resort.

I think that most of the people I know to contact already get it from you.

[Marriah]

Try the Carolina Gold Rice, it is SPECTACULAR! Their risotto recipe is heaven. We also love the Savannah Red Rice. I'm addicted!

[msmarmitelover]

Hi Shuna,
When you have a moment I'd love to know what you think of British flour v US flour.
Is there a British equivalent of Anson mills?

Hello msmarmiteloverrrrr! Well I did write something a while back about British Flour, but I'm not sure if that's what you mean {?}. On the other hand, about an equivalent to Anson Mills in the UK? YES!! You have far more options than I do, in fact, because your soil is so much better. (my opinion.)

I think your best resource is Britain's best bread baker, Dan Lepard, but you knew I'd say that right? You also have The Real Bread Campaign and the UK Soil Association, so no matter which road you take I think you'll get a lot of information. Thanks for the good questions! ~ Shuna