Delicious, Reasonably Priced Sweet & Salty Things

On the days I go into Poulet to help out, bake a little something, finesse the sweets recipes, sit down for lunch, taste the day's salads, I often make this comment to Lucila, "Our customers are very lucky." Lucila Hernandez has been running the kitchen at Poulet for many many years and I am not always sure she believes me. Sometimes it takes an outsider's eye to re-invigorate the inspiration in a kitchen.

Both at The French Laundry and at Gramercy Tavern the owners encouraged us cooks to eat as a diner in the restaurant as much as we could.

"You are serving the same thing night after night, and it may be boring to you, but we are going to have diners here tonight who are eating it for the first time. I want them to feel surprised and delighted by each bite." Thomas (Keller, chef/owner of TFL) would often tell us from his tall expediting position before service started. At Gramercy Tavern we were given dining gift certificates and as well we were given a discount. Every single staff member, every month. We were given cards at the end of meals to rate service and food and there was ample space to give feedback.

At Citizen Cake I reminded my staff every day to look at the case of tarts and cookies from the customer's perspective.

I have been cooking and baking for almost fourteen years. Before that I worked retail for 8 years, 6 of them in the food industry. (I'm older than I look and I started working when I was 14.) I opened the Berkeley Whole Foods Market, their second store in California.

I say these things here, because when I say to Lucila, "Our customers are very lucky," I say it with a lot of experience to back me up. It doesn't mean Poulet, a 27 year old business, is perfect. We are not using the most expensive ingredients and marking up our food by 600%, catering only to the wealthy and picky. We inhabit a quirky, ecclectic, silly, accessible space with great details and frozen comfort food to go.

Recently, as many of you Bay Area foodies and Chowhounders know, a mall-like fancy food court has opened up in the long unoccupied space next to Cesar and Chez Panisse. Much of the food is same or similar to Poulet's and none of it is less than twice the price. Our kitchen has been buying and tasting their offerings here and there to see what all the fuss is about.

I would never say to the cooks and chefs in charge there, "Our customers are so lucky!"

Berkeley, land of ex-hippie politicos and leftists. Home to an "All Organic" farmer's market and laws that require public schools to be fast-food free. I went to a Red-Diaper Nursery school here 37 years ago. I remember the tanks in People's Park. I saw "free love" first hand.

Hey Bay Area, put your money where your mouth is! Support the businesses that have survived! You want to eat local? Look around! Make choices about keeping commerce supporting the community it inhabits. Vote with your dollar. Thank the restaurants making the choices they do.

Pasta Pacifico recently moved from the space it held for over 15 years. (It was just down the street from Poulet.) The landlord wants to put an Italian restaurant there. Is this person crazy? A well worn, friendly, inexpensive restaurant and homemade pasta shop that takes its wares to the Berkeley Farmer's markets every Saturday, Tuesday and Thursday is a much better draw to a neighborhood with far too many restaurants already.

But who am I? Just a pastry chef adding sparkly delicious new touches on a landmark business. If you want to continue to taste my lively, seasonal, inspired creations here please stop by more often. Drop in for your next picnic gathering. Call ahead to reserve a whole roasted chicken. Let Poulet cater your next event.

Poulet
m-f 10:30 am-8 pm saturday 10:30 am-6 pm  1685 Shattuck Avenue at Virginia Street Berkeley, California

DESSERTS IN ROTATION THIS WEEKEND:

homemade butterscoth pudding! locally picked lemons lemon cream. Perfect Snickerdoodles, Venezuelan Milk Chocolate Pot de creme. rhubarb & cornmeal cake! tiny carrot cake cupcakes. fresh peach and frangipane tart in puff pastry. double chocolatey chocolate whoppers with toasted walnuts.

 

Comments

[Kudzu]

Shuna --
Thanks for your very thoughtful and hearfelt writing about the state of the business in today's post and the one before it. I am grateful to see someone's talking about the back story, the hard work, the gumption needed to keep food-based venues open and successful.

I get really tired of the lemmings who run to the newest spots and the ever-present quesion, "Have you been to ------?" I'm a faithful lover and believe in supporting quality over novelty. This is not to say I won't try new places (esp. when I'm invited) but I hate the emphasis on what's hot this week.

Thanks again.

[Anita]

Shuna,
Thanks for such a thoughtful and insightful post - it's great to hear from someone who's seen and experienced so much!

I used to live in Berkeley up until recently and I always loved seeing the awning over Poulet's door as I went down Shattuck.

Hopefully your post will encourage others to take a closer look at what their neighborhood offers and not just run to the latest trendy gourmet store.

[Dr. Biggles]

You tellim', givem the old 1 2.

I eat locally every day.

Biggles

[Dad]

Wow! You get busy, you don't look at eggbeater for a few days, and boom, Shuna has posted a half-dozen new pages!! Ellen and I think we work hard, but now we are going to redouble our efforts!! Each piece is so good, Shuna, so much YOU in each one. The way you write about food minutiae does make them interesting, even fascinating. And thde photos, as always, top notch!!

[Fatemeh]

butter...butter...scotch...pudding???

made lovingly by shuna-belle?

must. pick. tongue. up. off. ground.

[melissa]

every time you write about (and show!)what's on the menu at poulet, i wish i lived in berkeley. thats quite a stretch for this die-hard new yorker. we'll miss you this weekend.
xox,
melissa

[Christi]

Growing up in Oakland and coming back after an absence, I have rediscovered Poulet through your site! I went today and had the lemon cream and was in heaven. "Knowing" (if only through the internet) the person that has made this wonderful goodie makes it even better. Please keep bragging about what you're making as I seem to be rather vulnerable to the descriptions and photos!

[Julie]

I love this post. I've watched innumerable unique little NY food venues fold under the pressure of chain stores or real-estate buy-outs, and always feel a terrible sadness when this happens. Your photos and descriptions are actually giving me an appetite on this humid, heavy-air NYC day when I haven't really felt like eating anything. What's that cake with the dark berry jam or filling poking out? I could eat some of that lemon cream right now, and I'd simply scarf one of those yummy golden cupcakes topped with a rich swirl of chocolate...

[laura @ cucina testa rossa]

bravo! you are amazing!

[Laura]

I was intrigued by your article,and your expression about how much hard work the food industry really has to do. I do have a question for you....In the picture of Lucinda Hernandez what kind of pan is she using for her fritatta?...I'm really curious if it's cast iron or what?

[shuna fish lydon]

Hello Laura,

Thank you for asking a great question! Lucila and I looked at the pan today. It is a small Paella pan and we think it is made of iron because it is still in perfect condition after much use, but it is not heavy the way a cast iron pan would be.

It does indeed do a beautiful job, and the way the eggs rise up to envelop the vegetables is nice looking as well.

[Laura]

Thank you for taking time from your busy schedule to answer my silly question. The reason for the question it's that I'm currently stationed in Germany, and France Lorraine France is only 1/2 hour away and they have alot of pans like yours. I would love to learn how to cook a frittata like yours. Thank You Very Much!!!!