sometimes it takes my desserts a long time to be born.
each one a different animal. creatures with different features.
this one is odd, no doubt about that. it's not for everyone. a lot of cream. cold and papery. not terrifically chestnutty, but definitely adds to an intriguing texture.
I had few ideas about what would go with it. dried fruit, nuts, Pedro Ximenez wine. but then it stumped me. how? how would I keep it from being dry and flat? it being winter and all, it's not easy to come up with seasonal desserts for every fruit. dried fruit comes to the pastry chef's rescue. caramel and nuts and chocolate take center stage.
and then. it hit me. I have a few 'salads' on the menu, so... why......... not.....
!! PANZANELLA !!
the famous bread salad! from summer! but this one would be deep winter flavours. a brightness would come from the fact that the dessert was frozen. and dried sour cherries poached in white verjus.
the dessert is not pretty. it's a study of leather chairs and old titled spines. it's one candle in the corner as you settle in under a thick woolen blanket. maybe you're smoking a pipe or are wrapped in a scarf. snow on the ground covering newly fallen leaves. tucked in for the night, although dark has fallen early.
this is a sophisticated dessert in that it's an inward one. the flavors are deep and intense like mostarda or chutney or fruit cake or panforte. it's not for everyone. so it may not reach the menu. if you come in ask if I have it around. it's a dessert on some special parties we're hosting. {chef's pick, heh.}
on the plate:
white coffee-chestnut parfait sits atop "panzanella" of 2 nut tortes cubed and tossed with a compote of diced poached comice pears, dried black & white figs, sour cherries. dashes of zing provided by candied Meyer lemon peel and Buddha's Hand.
Um, please send 5 to the following address: my house.
Can't wait to eat some of these.
What kind of microbe could turn 10 pounds of flour pink? How does this happen?
What's your favorite book?
So many questions.
Posted by: Joe Fish | 22 December 2007 at 12:24 AM
I can attest to the fact that this is a stunning creation. What it lacks in looks (and it is by no means ugly...just unassuming) it makes up for with complexity and deliciousness. I'm honored and overjoyed to have eaten this dessert.
Posted by: Aaron | 22 December 2007 at 02:28 AM
I'm counting the days until I can write posts like this. Until then, I live vicariously through yours. DON'T disappoint me.
/kidding
//xoxoxox infinity, mean it.
Posted by: Raspil | 22 December 2007 at 02:36 AM
oh CMON it deserves to be on the menu! soooo good! & thank you for the new lil surprise last night...
Posted by: lindsey | 23 December 2007 at 03:59 PM