buckwheat crepes. a dessert conundrum, solved.

so you have this idea. you can see it, taste it, smell it. you know the approximate proportions. a dash of honey would be lovely with the buckwheat flour, a hint of orange flower water. roast the pears from raw in a very hot oven. what will happen differently in a wood burning oven?

you make pear ice cream. you're so proud because there's no waste:
poach pears in poaching liquid. process in robot coupe, set aside.
take that poaching liquid and reduce. reduce until strong.
make anglaise. a thick one because you're going to add a lot more moisture with the poached pear puree.
when base is cooking, pour in pear poach liquid redux.
churn with pear puree.
very pear-y, I must say.

you keep testing this buckwheat crepe. 50/50 with all purpose flour. 75/25, the same. then you like one that's 80/20 but with bread flour as the 20. finally you go to the edge of the diving board and make a crepe that's 100% buckwheat flour. but you and your sous chef agree, the texture is just too sandy, too buckwheat-y, but not in a good way.

this is the thing:
you love the way the crepe tastes as it's just cooling from the pan. but later? ick, not so pleasant. sure, you could heat them slightly in a microwave just before plating, but that would defeat a lot of the care you've taken with the appareil (= batter). you have gone to a party bringing these crepe experiments. unbeknownst the the famous guests, you have turned them into plated dessert guinea pigs. they rave, you silently critique. sure it's good. but

it could be better.

how?

the pear-buckwheat conundrum.

the thing is this: you love crepes. everything about them. the impression they make on the plate for the diner. the lace-like patterning the hot pan makes. each one, a snowflake. their crispy edges giving way to a soft, supple belly.

and what's more: they're pliable!

but. but it's not working. and you know it can. you do! you have conviction.

you experiment and nibble and eat and think. but it takes a few nights away and then it hits you.

        CLAFOUTI ! ! ! !

Clafouti is {basically} crepe appareil baked in a ramekin/ pan. Clafouti is a rustic preparation for fruit and one can pretty it up or one can choose to take 10 minutes from start to finish and have something exceptional hidden and creating an exquisite perfume sneaking out of the oven.

                        it's a simple thing, demure. shy and country, sweet and warm, deep and earthy.

sometimes it takes a while to stretch an idea into and edible. the conviction, the mulling, the experimenting-- it all pays off. but once a dessert is born there's no telling what it will grow up to become...

Comments

[Aaron]

When you say you make a "thick" anglaise, to what do you refer? Hope it continues to meet your expectations...a short relief from worry.

[shuna fish lydon]

Aaron,

by thicker I mean with yolks, mostly, althou it can be achieved by cutting down on sugar or using only cream. When making additions to anglaise it's important to make a base that is a good vehicle for this. Otherwise the overall result can be too runny or too sweet or too soft...

But YOU know all this, so why are you asking....?

[Mercedes]

I never made the connection between crepe batter and clafoutis before, but now it seems obvious. We swear by using a touch of beer in our crepe batter, which makes me think oh a buckwheat-beer-pear clafoutis, hmmm. Or maybe some chestnut flour...

[shuna fish lydon]

Mercedes!

{It makes me so happy that you read and visit and comment here at the 'beater.}

Indeed! Beer! In fact I've made a Chimay sauce for a dessert involving gingerbread and honey.

In this here dessert we're adding a tiny splash of cognac because the extra richness in flavour can be supported. Clafouti is one of the few desserts I think a strong flavored alcohol makes a positive difference. Something about that custard being confined in such a hot space... and all those eggs...

thanks for stopping by!

[sam]

Is a thick Anglaise the same as a custard? Since where I come from (Anglaise-land) we on have custard and it is usually simply described as thick, thin or (if you are really unlucky or at school having lunch) lumpy.

[trevor]

As they say in talk radio: "longtime listener, first-time caller."

Just wanted to say thanks for connecting the dots for me between crepe batter and clafouti.

I love your dessert ideas but more than that it's the behind-the-scenes details of how you think about desserts and the process of creating them that keeps me reading your blog. This was a great post.

As a relatively new pastry chef these are some of the best lessons I've found as I haven't actually been lucky enough to work for you.

Thanks again.

[maïa cybelle]

Shuna - I'm so happy to read about your clafouti revelation. I haven't heard about a clafouti in AGES. In my family, it was the birthday cake for children born in the summer. Specifically cherry-season. My mother baked me a cherry clafoutis (this is how we spell it) every year for my birthday until I was a teenager. She always left the pits in the cherries much to my annoyance. It meant I had to slow down while devouring it! My grandmother made it with all sorts of old fashion/wild cherries. We would often have it for dessert - or even breakfast during the summer in provence. Mmmmm good. Is your clafoutis currently on the menu? I will come to taste it!

[shuna fish lydon]

Sam,

Funny you should ask since Creme Anglaise is English custard. Yes, it's supposed to be liquid, although one can fortify it will a lot more yolks to thicken it.

Trevor--

I am so glad you commented! But I'm even happier that my pastry chefdom resonates with yours. This warms me immeasurably! To be inspiring to another is quite a grace and gift. Here's to more comments and perhaps conversations!

Maia Cybelle,

Alo! thank you for your petite anecdote. Yes, I'm sure your spelling is more correct. It wouldn't be the first time Americans dropped a letter they were too lazy to write down.

The Buckwheat Clafoutis will be on the winter menu at lunch for Dine About Town and for our new 3 course Business Lunch. If you're heading in please email me to let me know so I can come out and have a few cheeks kissed.

bisous x

[katy]

why, oh why, don't I like clafouti? i've made it myself, made it in cooking class, and had my mom make it for me, and i've never really liked it. so sad. i love everything else you've written about though -- esp the idea of 80/20 buckwheat crepes with bread flour! that's definitely going on my to-do list. :-)