The other day I caught one of my favorite preparations from the restaurant on film digitally: braising octopus. Michael is passionate about where these animals come from and he works hard to keep its preparation consistent. I love watching it start to finish and it's my favorite dish to order or suggest to friends who come in.
Octopus is easier to mess up than it is to make delicious and tender. I've worked with chefs who are good at both destroying and honoring this incredible creature. Some say it's outcome has to do with the size of the animal but I disagree as I've had both young and mature rubbery octopus. I think, as with all ingredients, animal or not, it has to do with understanding the molecular make-up of the ingredient's flesh, skeleton and its natural habitat. A collard green likes to be cooked longer than spinach because it grows in harsher conditions and its leaves are much thicker. Some citrus peels needs a lot of blanching before candying, while another needs none.
I have some conflict with eating octopus because I have always felt related to the sea and all the creatures who live in water. When it comes into the restaurant I try to send my thoughts its way. But I was excited to have my camera to photograph some of the process the other day, because these animals are so magnificent.
When I work with chefs who treat their menu ingredients with respect I can appreciate their food much more, and conversely, make desserts which follow their savoury thoughts that much better.
Working in a restaurant is building a relationship. It's hundreds of relationships and it's one, all at the same time. One of many is the relationship we all have with the myriad of ingredients and those people who get them to us from land and sea.
As I've begun to document, photographically and with words, the daily life of the kitchen I call home, I see there are layers and layers of life going on every second, every minute, every day, with every aspect and every person and every action. It is not possible for me to tell all of these stories, I am not omniscient. I am merely attempting to give you a glimpse, a peek from the inside and to the inside, with as much respect as possible.
For more photos of the octopuses and their braise preparation, check them out on flickr.
An octopus can be a delightfully - albeit delightfully creepy - creature to cook and eat, although I have never done more than braise it or include in a soup. When it comes to grilling them, how difficult can it be?
Regards,
EtG
Posted by: Ed the Gent | 14 January 2008 at 05:41 PM
Hello Ed the Gent,
Welcome to Eggbeater!
As far as grilling octopus I believe that one must cook the animal first, before laying it on a searingly hot grill, otherwise it's too much of a shock to the protein. I have not cooked octopus from start to finish at Sens but first we braise it, and the grilling is last, but I think there's also another step or two between braising and grilling.
If you need more info I will ask our chef and get back to you.
Posted by: shuna fish lydon | 14 January 2008 at 06:14 PM
Nice picture set.
How about posting his recipe?
I love octopus, but have had difficulty in mastering the cooking of it.
Posted by: chadzilla | 14 January 2008 at 07:12 PM
O Chadzilla! I don't wanna get in trouble... but I'll ask MD if I can pass along his recipe to you.
Posted by: shuna fish lydon | 14 January 2008 at 07:32 PM
To quote Homer Simpson,"mmmm, cephalopods...." Seoul Garden in J-Town has a great spicy octopus dish. I love the grilled Octopus at Kokkari....I need to get to Sens
Posted by: SwillMonkey | 14 January 2008 at 10:10 PM